Replacing a Kitchen Tap — Step by Step
Check the steps below first — if you're not confident, get it fixed safely today.
Post a job — we'll find you an engineer →Turn off the water supply at the isolation valves under the sink before starting. If there are no isolation valves, turn off at the mains stopcock.
Replacing a kitchen tap is a popular home improvement that a competent DIYer or plumber can complete in 1–3 hours. The biggest challenge is often access — the space under the kitchen sink is cramped and the nuts holding the tap can be extremely difficult to reach. A basin wrench (long-handled angled wrench) is essential.
Not sure if this matches your problem?
Use our interactive tool — answer a few questions and get a personalised diagnosis.
Most likely cause & what to check
Turn off the hot and cold supplies at the isolation valves under the sink — slot screwdrivers turned 90°. If no isolation valves, turn off at the mains. Open the tap to release pressure and drain the lines.
Disconnect the supply pipes from the tap tails — the flexible braided hoses or copper pipes connecting to the bottom of the tap. Have a small bucket or towel underneath as residual water will drip.
Use a basin wrench (a specialist tool designed for working in confined spaces) to reach up and loosen the back nut(s) holding the tap to the sink. These are often very tight — apply penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes if stuck.
Remove the tap and clean the sink surface thoroughly around the tap hole — years of limescale and sealant will be present. The new tap must seat on a clean surface.
Check the tap hole size matches the new tap. Standard UK kitchen tap holes are 35mm diameter. Monobloc mixer taps use a single hole; pillar taps need two holes. Measure before buying.
Fit the new tap with its gasket or apply plumber's putty under the tap body as instructed. Fit the back plate (if included), thread the tap tails through the hole, and hand-tighten the back nut. Avoid overtightening — hand-tight plus a quarter turn is enough for the tap to be secure.
Connect the flexible supply hoses to the tap tails and to the isolation valves, using PTFE tape on threaded connections. Turn the water back on slowly and check for drips at every connection.
Not confident doing this yourself?
Post the job and we'll match you with vetted local engineers. Free, no obligation.
🛠 Tools & materials you may need
🔗 Some links above are affiliate links — if you buy through them we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This keeps the site free.
Was this guide helpful?